Twinwoods 4x4 sell a range of brake kits for Land Rover vehicles. As well as standard OEM brakes upgrade kits from LOF Brakes, EBC and Terrafirma are also available.
Did you know that all new brakes need to be bedded in?
Sometimes the garage will attempt this for you but it is good practice to do it yourself. Whoever is doing it, it needs to be done properly if you want an effective braking system that lasts. Although manufacturers design their brake discs and pads to need minimal bedding in, bedding in will ensure they work at their full potential and last longer.
Below we have outlined our process for bedding in new brakes. If your brake manufacturer has a different method then it is always advisable to follow their advice.
Before doing anything we highly recommend fully changing your brake fluid, or at the very least checking the level and water content.
Why bed in brakes ?
Bedding in your brakes means transferring an even layer of brake pad material onto the brake disc which assists in smoother brake operation and improved braking power. It's a kind of wearing-in process.
Some brake pad manufacturers include a "bedding in layer" on the brake pad to help speed up the bedding in process but proper bedding in is still recommended.
Can brakes be un-bedded?
Yes. Where brake pads are persistently used below their recommended operating temperature then the transfer layer can be completely removed from the brake disc. So there is an argument that if 99% of the time you're very gentle on your brakes then there is no point in bedding them in as you'll effectively be unbedding them pretty soon anyway.
Whether or not you choose to bed them in is completely up to you, but it's a simple process and one we always do for our customers especially for those who have invested in bigger brakes such as from LOF Brakes.
The Process
The first 100 miles
For about the first 100 miles after fitting your new brakes try to drive gently avoiding harsh braking (except emergency braking!). Obviously 100 miles up the M1 isn't going to affect your brakes much, so if you do a lot of motorway miles then increase this initial distance to 500 miles.
After 100 miles it is recommended to visually inspect the brakes and check the torque on accessible bolts. Also check your brake fluid level.
The second 100 miles
After the initial step you can increase the braking slightly, making them work just a little harder. Again how many you do this for depends on where you're driving, 100 miles of "mixed" driving is recommended.
Choose a good location
A long, quiet, open road is ideal. Somewhere you can speed up and slow down without either causing issues for other people, or other people getting in your way. Somewhere where you're not going to have to stop at roundabouts and traffic lights frequently.
Start gently
On an open quiet road speed up to around 40mph and brake relatively hard down to 10mph. Repeat this 2-3 times. This will get some heat into the brakes.
Increase the heat
Now the brakes have warmed up a little accelerate up to 60mph and then brake hard to 10mph. Repeat this until you start to notice brake fade. During this stage you will smell the brakes and you may see some smoke. This is normal. Then drive normally for 5-10 minutes without using the brakes, to allow them to gently cool. If you need to stop then don't sit on the brakes - this will transfer brake pad material to the disc in one spot and will cause what will feel like warped brake discs.
It can take up to 1500 miles for your brakes to become fully efficient. During this time they may make odd noises - this is normal.
Never attempt to sand or scotchbrite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction: this will only make things worse by taking the pads “off-flat” and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the disc they will be used on and by following our bedding recommendation.
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